If you're thinking about using a figure 8 belay device, you're probably looking for that classic, smooth feel that modern tube-style devices or assisted braking gadgets sometimes just can't replicate. While most gyms and sport climbers have moved toward things like the Grigri or the ATC, the "Figure 8" remains a staple in certain circles, especially among canyoneers, search and rescue teams, and old-school climbers who swear by its simplicity. It's a chunk of aluminum that looks exactly like the number it's named after, and honestly, there's something satisfying about how straightforward it is.
Why stick with the classic 8?
Let's be real: technology moves fast. In the climbing world, we've seen some incredible engineering that makes catching a fall almost effortless. So, why would someone stick to using a figure 8 belay device in this day and age? The biggest selling point is heat dissipation. Because there's more metal surface area compared to a tiny ATC, it doesn't get screaming hot as quickly when you're doing a long, fast rappel.
Another reason is the "smoothness" factor. If you've ever felt the jerky, stuttering movement of a rope through a dirty tube device, you'll appreciate the 8. It allows for a very fluid transition of rope, which is why it's still a favorite for rappelling down big faces. It's also incredibly durable. You could probably drop one of these off a cliff, hike down, find it, and it would still work fine (though, please don't actually do that—retired gear is a thing for a reason).
How to set it up without the headache
When you're actually using a figure 8 belay device, the setup is pretty intuitive, but there are a few ways to do it depending on how much friction you need. The standard way involves taking a bight of rope (a loop), pushing it through the larger hole, and then looping it over the "head" or the smaller part of the device so it rests on the neck. Then, you clip your locking carabiner through the small hole and onto your belay loop.
One thing people often overlook is which way the rope is facing. You want to make sure your brake hand side is coming off the device in a way that feels natural. Most people prefer the rope to come out the side rather than straight down, but that can vary based on the specific model of the 8 you're using. Some have "ears" (little protrusions) that prevent the rope from slipping into a girth hitch—which is a total nightmare if it happens mid-climb.
The friction factor
The amount of friction you get when using a figure 8 belay device is largely determined by the angle of your brake hand. Unlike some modern devices that have "high friction" grooves, the 8 relies heavily on the wrap of the rope. If you're belaying someone much heavier than you, or if you're rappelling on a thin, brand-new rope, you might find that it feels a bit "slick."
To beef up the friction, some folks will double-wrap the rope, though you have to be careful that it doesn't get tangled. Honestly, if you find yourself needing a massive amount of friction, you might be better off with a different tool, but for most standard setups, the 8 provides a predictable, linear feel that's easy to manage once you get the hang of it.
Dealing with the "kink"
If you talk to any climber who hates the 8, they'll bring up rope kinking within thirty seconds. It's the device's biggest flaw. Because of the way the rope twists as it passes through the circles, using a figure 8 belay device tends to turn your nice, straight climbing rope into a pile of tangled spaghetti over time.
To minimize this, try to keep the rope as straight as possible as it enters the device. If you're rappelling, don't let the rope swirl around too much. It's also a good idea to flake your rope out thoroughly after a session of using an 8 to let those twists work themselves out. If you ignore it, you'll eventually end up with "pigtails"—those annoying tight spirals that make the rope impossible to pull through a carabiner.
Is it safe for lead belaying?
This is where things get a bit controversial in the modern climbing community. Technically, yes, you can use it for lead belaying. People did it for decades before the ATC was even a glimmer in a designer's eye. However, using a figure 8 belay device for lead climbing requires a lot of vigilance.
The main issue is that it doesn't have the same "bite" as a tube device. If a leader takes a massive whipper, the belayer has to be incredibly fast and firm with their brake hand. There's also the risk of the rope slipping into that "girth hitch" position I mentioned earlier, which can lock the device up completely. If you're going to belay a leader with one, make sure you're using a version with ears, and maybe practice in a controlled environment first. Most gyms actually ban them for belaying because of these nuances, so check the rules before you show up with your vintage hardware.
Canyoning and specialized uses
Where using a figure 8 belay device really shines is in canyoning and caving. When you're dealing with muddy, sandy, or wet ropes, a tight tube device can get gummed up or even jam. The 8 is much more forgiving with grit. It just chews through the grime and keeps moving.
In canyoning, you also often need to be able to release a person who is stuck on a rope under a waterfall. There are specific ways to rig an 8 (like the "toss-and-go" or various releasable setups) that are much harder to pull off with a Grigri. It's all about having the right tool for the environment. If you're in a wet, sandy slot canyon in Utah, the 8 is probably your best friend.
Choosing the right 8
Not all 8s are created equal. You've got the standard "round" ones, the ones with ears (often called "Rescue 8s"), and even some squared-off versions designed to reduce kinking. If you're just starting out, a medium-sized aluminum version with ears is usually the safest bet. It's a bit heavier, but it prevents the rope from jumping up and locking itself, which is a huge peace of mind when you're 100 feet off the ground.
Steel versions exist too, but they're heavy as lead. Unless you're a professional rescuer doing ten rappels a day, aluminum is almost certainly what you want. It's lighter on the harness and handles heat well enough for recreational use.
Final thoughts on technique
At the end of the day, using a figure 8 belay device is about understanding the physics of your rope. It's a manual process. There's no "auto-block" or "assist" to save you if you let go of the brake. You have to be "on" the whole time.
Keep your brake hand low, stay aware of the rope's orientation, and watch out for those twists. Whether you're rappelling into a hidden canyon or just want to feel a bit more connected to the old-school ways of the sport, the figure 8 is a reliable, nearly indestructible piece of kit. It might not be the "standard" anymore, but it definitely still has a seat at the table. Just remember to always double-check your locking carabiner and keep that brake hand firm. Happy climbing!